Twelve people trained to lift the disabled help me from My wheelchair onto the beach chair especially designed to go all the way into the water,
Into the blue, a place until one year ago today I thought was never possible again. Never to ride a surf board, do a drop in or reentry or enter the tube and glide through the blue room. Then a man called Jesse billauer who was a competitive surfer until an accident made him a wheelie just like me came up with a program “why can’t the dis and other wise abled ever surf again? Why can’t they skate a skate park drop in from an eight foot wall or do a hand plant? Were disabled not dead.
(jesse is on the left )
So Life rolls on,an organization that gives life back to young couples blessed with a child born severely disabled even for Just 30 minutes at a time, let’s my Ella a corporate publisher of a major magazine and lover and wife of a woman who’ll never not need a wheelchair who will live with multiple disability the chance, to just be “Ella” and kick off her shoes turn off her phone and fall asleep on a rock on a beach because she knows I’m in good hands.
These blessed volunteers place smiles and tears of joy where only emptiness pain and depression were before, they show us anything we want is possible no matter how badly the body is broken as long as our dreams aren’t.
The name says it all “LIFE ROLLS ON “because for us to survive it must!
WE become broken but not beyond repair, disabled but not dead and once we convince ourselves of that we can do anything in the world we want we just need to work out a new way to do it and bodhisattvas like Jesse Billauer give us all that chance.
The first wave I was pushed out to was about 50 yards off shore, I was pushed through the first wave as the spray hit my face,I paddled through the second and raised my chest off the board so as not to choke on sea water and finally we reach the sweet spot.
They turn me around as a peak was forming, and it became a set with a slight right hand break I paddled like crazy they pushed me off I caught the wave I stayed on all the way I wasn’t standing but in my mind it was a place called streaky bay a mate called fuetril and a god called Belnap flanked me and it started to curl almost to a tube so I dropped one hand off the board and ran it along the wall of the blue room, it never came all the way over but in my mind it was and it was perfect I heard the cheering and I had ridden it all the way to the shore.
That happened five more times before lunch and five more times after.
We can’t stand, we can’t use our legs so it’s left to our hearts to ride the crest of the wave but ask any good surfer the feet only ever follow the heart.
Today there were over a hundred disabled surfers Jesse called us athletes, and every time we hit the shore he made sure everyone clapped and cheered and yelled with enthusiasm but no one could cheer or scream louder than me and the others on the boards, because for those few minutes we were free, we were whole, the chairs were empty on the shore and our souls were overflowing on the waves mahala Jesse google bodhisattva it is you in spades.